Any Plumbers in the Nut House?

Can you shoot me a picture of both, the one that is complet(handle showing) and what ever you can photo of the other hole? I may be of help..

[The Professor]

Originally Posted by Gone Dave

Can you shoot me a picture of both, the one that is complet(handle showing) and what ever you can photo of the other hole? I may be of help..

Sure.

Here's the cold water (still intact):



And here's the hot water (disassembled):





Sorry for the picture quality -- wife has the good camera and all I have is the BlackBerry. Hope someone can see a clue....

[MajorCaptSilly]

There really should be a nut back at the back of the stem. I've always used deep well sockets for those. I used to have stems that were too long even for deep well and I'd slip the socket over the stem so the stem would go through the hole at the back of the socket then use channel locks to turn.

MCS

[stinkie]

if you look at it you will see that the nut that you are looking for is on the outer sleeve next to the stem where the handle is conected. take the whole sleeve loose and you should see the washer that you are looking for .



stinkie

[The Professor]

Originally Posted by MajorCaptSilly

There really should be a nut back at the back of the stem. I've always used deep well sockets for those. I used to have stems that were too long even for deep well and I'd slip the socket over the stem so the stem would go through the hole at the back of the socket then use channel locks to turn.

MCS

I've tried about 10 different sizes. No dice. There's no nut behind the tile.

Originally Posted by stinkie

if you look at it you will see that the nut that you are looking for is on the outer sleeve next to the stem where the handle is conected. take the whole sleeve loose and you should see the washer that you are looking for .



stinkie

So the piece that starts about 1/2" from the front end and continues back (once solid piece) into the wall *is* the nut?

[stinkie]

yes.


stinkie

[The Professor]

Originally Posted by stinkie

yes.


stinkie

Alright ... well ... I've given it as much muscle as I'm willing to on an internet diagnosis. Gave it a little shot of WD40 in the back to loosen things up and it still wouldn't budge. My concern at this point is that I'm not actually turning the right thing. I know I *probably* am; but I don't want to risk putting a lot of muscle into turning the wrong thing, which then breaks a weld or something back in the wall. Then I'd be totally eff'd.

At this point, I'm probably just gonna wimp out and call the plumber tomorrow. It'll probably be a 20 minute fix; but I'm kind of feeling like that's worth avoiding the risk of a 2 hour repair.

Thanks to all the folks who've chimed in here or over PM.

[RGD.]

Originally Posted by The Professor

So the piece that starts about 1/2" from the front end and continues back (once solid piece) into the wall *is* the nut?

Exactly. And it's not going to come off easy. If you are not grabbing anything - then you are not using a large enough socket for it. That looks to be either a Sterling or Eljer faucet. The chrome part on the stem tighten against a packing - but you need to loosen the part that looks like the body to you - and it's all the way in the back. You may not have enough tile removed.

So you need a larger size socket (plumbers) and a large wrench in order to turn the socket. Once that is off you can replace the washer and the seat. Be advised the seat also takes a special tool (cheap) - insert it and then tap it lightly to set it, otherwise you will just round the seat off. If you can't get it out then you could install a beveled washer, but it won't last as long as the correct one. And don't forget the grease.


Ron

[14holestogie]

The grease may come in handy right before the plumber hands you his bill.

[The Professor]

Originally Posted by 14holestogie

The grease may come in handy right before the plumber hands you his bill.

Tell me about it.

It looks as though the eschutchen sleeve may work as the nut aroung the packing,I would turn of the water to the tub/house and use a deep well socket,possibly a spark plug size and remove the whole thing..
then you can see the seat inside and if you can't "see" it you can use your finger tip to feel for cracks or gouges in the seat. if its bad it will either be an octagon in the center or a squareish,(is that a word)?hole for the "seat wrench to fit into, (available for min- cash) at Home Depot or the like..
But take the whoe thing out and head to the HIS, I would look for an ACE hardware type store for the "FOG" to help match it up or for last choice HD, Packing string comes in a small 1-2' roll and is nothing more than a waxy string covered in graphite, and the washers for the seat seal will be sold seprate too..,or you may be able to "match" up the whole stem.. should not be alot-$$ but could cost as much as $30 bucks new.. either way you have done the hard part already.. just remember that it should come in hot or cold, so check the "twist" of the handle and match it up.

[MajorCaptSilly]

Originally Posted by Gone Dave

It looks as though the eschutchen sleeve may work as the nut aroung the packing,I would turn of the water to the tub/house and use a deep well socket,possibly a spark plug size and remove the whole thing..
then you can see the seat inside and if you can't "see" it you can use your finger tip to feel for cracks or gouges in the seat. if its bad it will either be an octagon in the center or a squareish,(is that a word)?hole for the "seat wrench to fit into, (available for min- cash) at Home Depot or the like..
But take the whoe thing out and head to the HIS, I would look for an ACE hardware type store for the "FOG" to help match it up or for last choice HD, Packing string comes in a small 1-2' roll and is nothing more than a waxy string covered in graphite, and the washers for the seat seal will be sold seprate too..,or you may be able to "match" up the whole stem.. should not be alot-$$ but could cost as much as $30 bucks new.. either way you have done the hard part already.. just remember that it should come in hot or cold, so check the "twist" of the handle and match it up.

What he said. I always opt to just replace the stem.

MCS