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#1 |
Adjusting to the Life
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Shopping around, I think i'm looking more in the $300-400 range for the head.
A few more questions: Is it worth re-running all the speaker wire? Is a 4v preamp decent? Recommendations on a ~200W RMS amp? Brands to avoid? Am I overlooking anything? |
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#2 | ||
Moar Padrons!
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Yes, 4V is fine. I would stay away from 2V though Is this a subwoofer amp? If so, just pick nearly any major brand monoblock amp. There is not a helluva lot of difference in $200 Class D amp vs a $1000 Class D Amp other than total watts. Make sure it is CEA compliant so you know the specs are true. Lots to avoid, stick with a major brand. I would steer clear of Sony though. Their mobile audio is garbage. I like the Alpine amps. Not really overlooking anything. I would up your battery when it needs to be replaced though as you are going to be drawing more power. |
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#3 | |
Adjusting to the Life
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I have double din DVD player headunit to control it all, think I paid like $299 I don't need blu tooth and all that other crap. I went with Alpine component speakers in all 4 doors and pioneer shallow 10" (all I could fit or would have gone 12") and 5 channel powerbass 2200 max watt amp. Match your speaker max watts to your amp output, l went with a 5 channel so I didn't have to install 2 amps. Crutchfield is has nice web sight and will help you figure out what options fit our car. I can tell first hand new headunit & new speakers will sound like crap without good amp, most head units are only capable of 15-16-17 watts x4 and most speakers are around 60 watts on up, choice your head unit, select your speakers then match your amp rms ratting to them.
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A gun in your hand is better then a cop on the phone |
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