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#1 |
Still Watching My Back
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What was your starting gravity? 1.065 ( recipe said 1.046 - 1.050)
What yeast did you use? Wyeast Irish ale prop. ( on a starter) What temperature have you been fermenting at? Around 68 - 70 Was this an extract batch? Did it have steeping grains? Yes and yes ( steeped at 150) Answer those and I can give you a target range for Final Gravity... and the method for figuring it out. ![]() Thanks! |
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#2 | |
Have My Own Room
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Here's how I came up with that: FG = -(((A%/100)(SG-1))-SG) Note the negative symbol in front of the parens. it'll work without, but yield a negative number. FG is the final gravity for a given starting gravity (SG) and a given attenuation (A%). Yeast strain attenuations can be found on their respective manufacturer sites. I always plug in the high (75% in this case) and low (71%) to get the min/max and make judgments based off of conditions. What did the recipe say final would be? 1.012-1.015?
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Pretending to play golf since 1989 Last edited by St. Lou Stu; 02-07-2011 at 08:34 PM. |
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#3 |
Still Watching My Back
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#4 | |
Have My Own Room
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That is the most likely thing that coulda done it. Although, you woulda had to have lost quite a bit due to boil off to get that high. Cold break and trub in the sample can also give false high gravity readings. I always manage to screw up temperature factors on warm readings too (calculation error?). If you run short again you can always add plain, boiled water to the wort to top off prior to fermentation and after the boil. Regardless, it'll be fine.
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Pretending to play golf since 1989 |
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#5 | |
Still Watching My Back
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#6 | |
The Homebrew Hammer
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As for gravity readings, I used to take a lot of them. But then I realized it was more of a pain in the ass than it was worth, so I just wait and eyeball fermentation activity at the airlock. I take three readings: O.G. before pitching, when I rack to the secondary, and F.G. after adding priming sugar to the bottling bucket. I've never had a stuck fermentation, so I suppose I'm lucky in that regard--it might make me change my technique.
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#7 | |
Still Watching My Back
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#8 |
Still Watching My Back
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#9 | |
The Homebrew Hammer
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![]() So here's what I would do. I would rack to a glass secondary and then watch it for a week. And by that, I mean actually eyeball it. Go all "beer whisperer" on it and see if it looks done. Anything bobbing around, or clumping on the top? Is it still as can be? Maybe float the hydrometer in there midweek to see if there's any movement. Then I'd bottle it and not worry. I hestitate to say it's stuck, especially since you started at an OG that was 10 points higher than expected, and now you're only 6-8 points higher than the recipe. Just means you have a big bodied beer. ![]()
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#10 |
Lebowski Urban Achiever
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As soon as all the parts for my mash tun arrive I will brew BierMuncher Centennial Blonde. I have it on good authority that this is a good light ale for summer drinking pleasure. Plus it costs $18.87 to brew 5 gallons of beer which equates to approximately $0.36 per 12 ounce beer.
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"Why don't you put them in your secret compartment" - 12stones (Ricky) Last edited by rack04; 02-22-2011 at 09:53 AM. |
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#11 | |
Have My Own Room
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If its still there(.020) by the time you read this and take another measurement, I'd call it good. It'll still be good beer. Did it get into the low 60's while fermenting?
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Pretending to play golf since 1989 |
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#12 | |
Still Watching My Back
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Oh, I really doubt it got to the low 60's during fermenting. I'd guess 65 at the lowest but anything's possible. Unfortunately I wasn't able to watch it 24/7, even though I would have liked to ![]() |
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