New Pipe Smoker With A Question? Ask an Old Fart

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

Too bad it doesn't absorb the taste from the first five bowls! Hey! I love a cob - smoke one all the time - but that wood thingie sticking in the chamber needs to char out over several smokes. Don't be alarmed if the second half of your first several smokes tastes like your old Pinewood Derby car.

I'm happy you just said that, because I just picked up a cob pipe and some captain black cherry... The smell of the tobacco was almost overwhelming, I assumed the taste of all of that cherry would make me want to puke... But I could hardly even taste it. I could taste it a little at first then it just started tasting like crap. My mouth tastes like I just licked an ash tray.

I also forgot to get pipe cleaners. And I'm using a 308 winchester case to tamp(don't worry, its been fired... And its fresh out of my case tumbler, so its clean)... And it also went out every time I went to tamp.

I also burnt the hell out of the top of the bowl... Good thing the pipe only cost $4. I almost opted for the $20 one, but I kept all of your opinions in mind, and for those I thank you all

-Jimmy PP

[spectrrr]

Originally Posted by Jimmy PP

I'm happy you just said that, because I just picked up a cob pipe and some captain black cherry... The smell of the tobacco was almost overwhelming, I assumed the taste of all of that cherry would make me want to puke... But I could hardly even taste it. I could taste it a little at first then it just started tasting like crap. My mouth tastes like I just licked an ash tray.

I also forgot to get pipe cleaners. And I'm using a 308 winchester case to tamp(don't worry, its been fired... And its fresh out of my case tumbler, so its clean)... And it also went out every time I went to tamp.

I also burnt the hell out of the top of the bowl... Good thing the pipe only cost $4. I almost opted for the $20 one, but I kept all of your opinions in mind, and for those I thank you all

-Jimmy PP

DISCLAIMER: I'm not even at the level of "young fart" yet. Greenhorn, wet behind the ears, those are more fitting descriptions

Having been where you are Jimmy, keep at it. It took me a few months, but I finally learned to load the pipe in such a way that it stays lit part of the time and only needs tamped a few times. And I got a eel for what kinds of tobacco work and don't. And well... the world just starts lining up for you ... until then, keep at it, it doesn't take long to get there.

I'll leave the wet aromatic tobacco bit and any other actual advice for an old fart to touch on, just wanted to give you a bit of encouragement that it will get much better fairly quickly.

Actually I haven't really been having too many problems. By the third bowl I had looked bowl packing up on youtube. And I found a way that works pretty good... I sprinkle tobacco into the bowl until full, tap the side to get it to settle down, then pinch tobacco in my fingers and set it on top, and coax it in by pushing on the sides, then repeat........ And the third time I smoked it didn't go out once. I did tamp it about every 5 minutes though. Who else does it like this?

I was smoking for at least half an hour, if not longer... I really didn't expect a tiny bowl to last that long!

[BigFrank]

Originally Posted by Jimmy PP

I did tamp it about every 5 minutes though. Who else does it like this?

I was smoking for at least half an hour, if not longer... I really didn't expect a tiny bowl to last that long!

I'm not sure what the rule of thumb is with tamping. I usually forget too, and end up tamping then relighting. It also really depends on what type of tobacco you are smoking.

[BigFrank]

Here's a question for ya fellas...

I have two Peterson Pipes, Donegal Rocky Style pipes with the sterling silver bands. What can I do to clean the silver up? They are starting to look a little dirty.

[Neuromancer]

Wright's Silver Polish but use a q-tip to put it on and be careful you don't get any on the briar, although it probably wouldn't hurt the finish...I do it carefully and don't want to chance it anyway...

Wright's Silver Polish on ebay

Originally Posted by BigFrank

What can I do to clean the silver up? They are starting to look a little dirty.

Wright's works fine if you have it around. I've use Berbia stem polish for some time now without any harm I can see, use a soft cloth and polish the metal band at the same time as vulcanite stem.

[WyGuy]

Got a question. What is the best way to go about removing the gunk (tar I assume) left over in the very bottom of the bowl? I was just using the pick on my pipe tool, but feel like that may damage the pipe. Or maybe I'm just over concerned because it's a new pipe.

[RevSmoke]

Originally Posted by WyGuy

Got a question. What is the best way to go about removing the gunk (tar I assume) left over in the very bottom of the bowl? I was just using the pick on my pipe tool, but feel like that may damage the pipe. Or maybe I'm just over concerned because it's a new pipe.

If it is a briar pipe, you're good. Not a problem.

Originally Posted by WyGuy

Got a question. What is the best way to go about removing the gunk left over in the very bottom of the bowl?

What "GUNK" are you talking about - When do you see this gunk?

If you’re talking about the moisture in the bottom of the bowl after smoking, leave it alone, you need it to form cake in the bottom of the bowl.

Let the pipe cool after smoking before stirring the dottle and ash up from the bottom of the bowl, place your thumb over the top of the bowl and shake the pipe to coat the inside with the ash, then set it down and leave it alone for 1 or 2 days, 3 would be better.

The next time you’re going to smoke the pipe, pass a pipecleaner through the stem into the bowl, making sure there aren’t any obstructions. Use a pipecleaner to gently remove any loose ash from the chamber walls, the “GUNK” from your last smoke will have absorbed into the dottle and ash you left in the bowl, this in turn forms the cake which will help to prevent the briar from burning.

Originally Posted by WyGuy

I was just using the pick on my pipe tool, but feel like that may damage the pipe. Or maybe I'm just over concerned because it's a new pipe.

The pick is meant to be used for clearing obstructions from the draught hole. Obsessive scraping/picking at the inside of a briar pipe can ruin it, you may even pick a hole in the bottom of the bowl.

[WyGuy]

Originally Posted by Demented

What "GUNK" are you talking about - When do you see this gunk?

If you’re talking about the moisture in the bottom of the bowl after smoking, leave it alone, you need it to form cake in the bottom of the bowl.

Let the pipe cool after smoking before stirring the dottle and ash up from the bottom of the bowl, place your thumb over the top of the bowl and shake the pipe to coat the inside with the ash, then set it down and leave it alone for 1 or 2 days, 3 would be better.

The next time you’re going to smoke the pipe, pass a pipecleaner through the stem into the bowl, making sure there aren’t any obstructions. Use a pipecleaner to gently remove any loose ash from the chamber walls, the “GUNK” from your last smoke will have absorbed into the dottle and ash you left in the bowl, this in turn forms the cake which will help to prevent the briar from burning.


The pick is meant to be used for clearing obstructions from the draught hole. Obsessive scraping/picking at the inside of a briar pipe can ruin it, you may even pick a hole in the bottom of the bowl.

I found the gunk after I got home and gave the pipe a mild cleaning to get rid of any loose ash. The "gunk" was right after the draught hole in the very bottom of the bowl, the bottom of the bowl is rather pointed in shape so a rather good environment for that sort of build up I suppose. From what you said I now believe it was just moisture buildup and will be sure to leave it alone from now on. Thanks!

[spectrrr]

got a question - I got a crapload of old pipes whose stems taste horrible. Plenty of ways to restore... whats the easiest?

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by spectrrr

got a question - I got a crapload of old pipes whose stems taste horrible. Plenty of ways to restore... whats the easiest?

If they're not grungy-nasty-oxydized-brown-and-green vulcanite then it's easy. Rout them out with bristle pipecleaners dipped in Everclear (or any other highproof option like 91% isopropyl or vodka). You can clean dried yuk around the buttons with toothpaste or baking soda and a soft toothbrush.

Nasty on the outside vulcanite takes a little more effort. Which is it?

[spectrrr]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

If they're not grungy-nasty-oxydized-brown-and-green vulcanite then it's easy. Rout them out with bristle pipecleaners dipped in Everclear (or any other highproof option like 91% isopropyl or vodka). You can clean dried yuk around the buttons with toothpaste or baking soda and a soft toothbrush.

Nasty on the outside vulcanite takes a little more effort. Which is it?

Nasty on the outside, I assume its Vulcanite (they're on mid to nice briars). Some are worse than others. The really bad ones have changed colors, but most of the bad ones just have a slightly visible crystallization on the outside of them. The good ones look fine but still taste like **** when you lick the outside.

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by spectrrr

Nasty on the outside, I assume its Vulcanite... the good ones look fine but still taste like **** when you lick the outside.

I heard there are people who sell used pipes and they pee (or worse) on the stems before they ship them. Never knew why. I always clean and sterilize each pipe I buy in case... you know.

Scour the inside of the stem with a bristle cleaner and alcohol, then:

I never tried this but a reliable hardcase told me a tablespoon of OxiClean in a quart of water soaks nasty vulcanite clean in 30-minutes or longer and, he said, doesn't think it'll hurt any ink or nomenclature on a stem. Do a test soak first if there's any nomenclature you care about on these pipestems. Sounds like the easy way to me.

There is the traditional soak in 100% chlorine bleach. It really works well but will damage nomenclature on a stem unless it's covered with a dab of Vaseline. Bleach takes an hour or three and it leaves vulcanite black as ink but feeling a bit furry. After a bleach soak (and water rinse) it'll need to be rubbed out with mild polishing abrasive. I never used sandpaper to clean stems - only MicroMesh polishing cloth (1500-12,000 for perfection). Depending on how furry the stems are post-bleach you may be able to skip sanding and find that a paper towel rubdown with toothpaste and/or baking soda will finish things up nicely.

Finish with a light rub of olive oil.

I used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser followed by toothpaste once. I thought it worked so-so; no trick to try it - some people swear by Magic Eraser. Personally I didn't think it worked very well (but it worked so-so, right?) on bad oxidation, I hate the feel of the things in my hand and I felt it needed a lot of rubbing pressure. Try that if you have one around. Nothing ventured. Any of these processes will make vulcanite or ebonite stems look like new and render them tasteless.

[Neuromancer]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

...There is the traditional soak in 100% chlorine bleach. It really works well but will damage nomenclature on a stem unless it's covered with a dab of Vaseline. Bleach takes an hour or three and it leaves vulcanite black as ink but feeling a bit furry. After a bleach soak (and water rinse) it'll need to be rubbed out with mild polishing abrasive. I never used sandpaper to clean stems - only MicroMesh polishing cloth (1500-12,000 for perfection). Depending on how furry the stems are post-bleach you may be able to skip sanding and find that a paper towel rubdown with toothpaste and/or baking soda will finish things up nicely.

Finish with a light rub of olive oil.....

Olive Oil can turn rancid sitting on the stem of a pipe if you don't rotate it fast enough...you're better off buying a can of Briar Pipe Wipe and some Handi-Wipes and making yourself some great polishing cloths...Briar Pipe Wipe has Mink Oil, Beeswax, and Lemon Oil in it...much better than olive oil...

[woops]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

I never tried this but a reliable hardcase told me a tablespoon of OxiClean in a quart of water soaks nasty vulcanite clean in 30-minutes or longer and, he said, doesn't think it'll hurt any ink or nomenclature on a stem. Do a test soak first if there's any nomenclature you care about on these pipestems. Sounds like the easy way to me.

I've used Oxiclean an a few ULTRA nasty vulcanite stems. I was real generous and didn't measure when I did this. Stems didn't have a nomenclature, so that wasn't a worry for my particular cleaning. I can say that the Oxiclean worked great! The stem was so nasty that the soak fizzed and bubbled when I dropped it in .... as if I had added an Alka-Seltzer.

[skier171]

Another noob question.

Is there a site similar to the devil site for pipe tobacco?
I want to try a big varity, and the B&M's here have a small selection of pipe tobacco around here. If there isnt, where would you suggest getting tobacco online?

[DrDubzz]

pipesandcigars.com
smokingspipes.com
4noggins.com
marscigars.com

any of those will be a good place to find tobacco, unfortunately (by that I mean thank the Lord) there's no "pipebid" out there

[BigFrank]

Originally Posted by RX2010

pipesandcigars.com
smokingspipes.com
4noggins.com
marscigars.com

any of those will be a good place to find tobacco, unfortunately (by that I mean thank the Lord) there's no "pipebid" out there

or pipe JOE...Pipe tobacco is cheap which is good. But that still doesnt help the fact that it's easy to turn into a Hoarder when it comes to pipe tobacco tins...