Shilala's Perfect Frigidaire Wine Fridge How To

[G G]

Okay I remember way back in the day when Shilala made a compressor driven Frigidaire Wine Fridge into a Humidor. I always wanted one but at the time I had a working vinotemp. My vinotemp crapped out on me a couple weeks ago and I had to do something. I found the very model he uses to do this on craigslist for $100 and picked it up yesterday. In messaging with Scott on how to accomplish the conversion, he expressed a desire to post up all the info and pics he has sent me to help me do this in case someone else wants to they can use the thread instead of bugging the crap out of him (which is what I had to do). Here is what I have, and Scott said he will chime in when necessary because I am illiterate with handyman stuff.

Here is the Frigidaire, and mine is model #LFWC35F4LB and a 35 bottle fridge.



and here is the back so you can see it's compressor driven:



In order for this to work right without drying out the cigars you have to use two or three computer case fans powered with an adapter (12 volt) to power them. You have a drain hole at the bottom that you run the adapter cord out of before sealing up the drain with electricians putty. Shilala has two in his but after talking to him about it I am going to use three fans at 15 CFM in the 60 mm size. Scott says if he ever builds another one that is what he will do instead of two, so if it's what he will do then it's good enough for me.





Scott bought his from http://www.svc.com

The zip straps and zip strap mounts can be purchased at Lowe's, and he used #10 nuts and washers and screws and cut them off to attach the straps to the fan case and attaching the guard to the fan. The fans will blow on the evaporator (the whole back wall of the interior) to dry the moisture and drive it back to the beads. They will hang at a 45 degree angle and run 24/7. You will only use two of the three leads to wire the fans and Scott said not to ask which one's. I don't know yet either but he also said that if you wire the wrong one's then as soon as you apply power it WILL fry the fan so be careful with this part. Google is your friend I am sure on this part.

As far as beads, I already have a pound and a half of HCM beads in from the vino and I'm going to use that and get another pound for a total of 2.5 pounds. Scott says it should be good to go. Of course you can add more if you like.

I will update with pics when I get the fans and stuff to actually convert it and hopefully we can make it a sticky for how to do this or at least the thread will be here to help guide folks in the process.

The only part I'm unsure of at this point is the adapter. Scott said you use one adapter to power all the fans and it is a 12 volt adapter. My question is does it matter about the polarity or the milliamps? Maybe Scott can chime in with the particulars on that.

I would also assume by looking at the unit, the adapter will need to have a pretty long cord to make it from inside to the drain hole then out the bottom back of the unit. Scott can also probably expand in this as well.

[T.G]

Originally Posted by G G

The only part I'm unsure of at this point is the adapter. Scott said you use one adapter to power all the fans and it is a 12 volt adapter. My question is does it matter about the polarity or the milliamps? Maybe Scott can chime in with the particulars on that.

I would also assume by looking at the unit, the adapter will need to have a pretty long cord to make it from inside to the drain hole then out the bottom back of the unit. Scott can also probably expand in this as well.

Yes, polarity matters since the fans are DC. Red wire is hot (+). If you hook it up backwards, it will either not run or you'll let the blue smoke out. If that happens, it'll never work.** If the fan has a yellow wire, you can ignore it, that's the feedback sensor for the RPM fan speed.

Assuming that each fan has the same nameplate data, 0.16A, that's 160mA each, that means for 3 fans, your draw will be around 480mA. In simple terms, equipment only draws the current (amperage) that it needs, so you can go higher, it won't hurt anything. I'd say go with at a 1A to 1.5A power supply would be fine and you can usually find them in thrift stores for about a buck. Depending on the fans, and I don't see it in the manufacturer literature for the ones you have, so I wouldn't do in your case without more research, you can run the fans at a lower voltage, like 9VDC to have them turn slower and not make as much noise.

So long as you maintain polarity, you can extend the wire by splicing in a longer section with crimp butt splices or just buy an extension that has the round plug ends (places like radio shack or fry's electronics have these).


**: Little known fact, electrical equipment doesn't actually run on electricity. It runs on a pre-installed charge of magic blue smoke. The electricity is necessary to create a field which keeps the blue smoke captive. If you let the blue smoke out, it won't run anymore.

[G G]

Originally Posted by T.G

Yes, polarity matters since the fans are DC. Red wire is hot (+). If you hook it up backwards, it will either not run or you'll let the blue smoke out. If that happens, it'll never work.** If the fan has a yellow wire, you can ignore it, that's the feedback sensor for the RPM fan speed.

Assuming that each fan has the same nameplate data, 0.16A, that's 160mA each, that means for 3 fans, your draw will be around 480mA. In simple terms, equipment only draws the current (amperage) that it needs, so you can go higher, it won't hurt anything. I'd say go with at a 1A to 1.5A power supply would be fine and you can usually find them in thrift stores for about a buck. Depending on the fans, and I don't see it in the manufacturer literature for the ones you have, so I wouldn't do in your case without more research, you can run the fans at a lower voltage, like 9VDC to have them turn slower and not make as much noise.

So long as you maintain polarity, you can extend the wire by splicing in a longer section with crimp butt splices or just buy an extension that has the round plug ends (places like radio shack or fry's electronics have these).


**: Little known fact, electrical equipment doesn't actually run on electricity. It runs on a pre-installed charge of magic blue smoke. The electricity is necessary to create a field which keeps the blue smoke captive. If you let the blue smoke out, it won't run anymore.

I am certainly not an electrician, but I was thinking that the little picture on the back of the adaptors were something about polarity. It's probably the same thing you are saying, and it's good info whether I'm dumb or not. Thanks for adding that to the thread. I hope with my info, and others adding more, that someone can do one of these and just follow the thread and not have to ask ten thousand questions like I did. Thanks.

[T.G]

Originally Posted by G G

I am certainly not an electrician, but I was thinking that the little picture on the back of the adaptors were something about polarity. It's probably the same thing you are saying, and it's good info whether I'm dumb or not. Thanks for adding that to the thread. I hope with my info, and others adding more, that someone can do one of these and just follow the thread and not have to ask ten thousand questions like I did. Thanks.

Yes, the pictures are.

AC vs DC markings:


1A = 1000mA

Tip/Ring polarity markings - note how #1 and #4 are the same, as are #2 and #3 - sometimes they mark the symbols upside down on the power supplies. The important part is the center dot is the "tip" the outer "C" is the "ring".



When you have a barrel connector, the center is always "Tip" the outer sleeve is always "ring". In the photo below, the power supply should be marked with the first or fourth image from the photo above.

[T.G]

Now, if you are adding connectors, then you'll have to either test them with a continuity meter or go by the packaging as there are about a billion different styles, but here's an example of how they tend to be designed.





If you are cutting the connectors off and splicing wires, usually the wire with the marking is hot (+). The marking could be a ridge on the wire, a solid line, a dashed line etc. I say usually because sometimes they are wired with the marked wire as "tip" and with a tip negative supply, that would make the unmarked wire hot, so it's best to always double check with a multi-meter after you cut the connector off.

[G G]

Thanks, I always kinda went with the side with the marking (line, etc) was hot. Good to know.

[T.G]

Originally Posted by G G

Thanks, I always kinda went with the side with the marking (line, etc) was hot. Good to know.

I'd say that probably 98.2% of the DC power supplies I've cut the connectors off of, that is the case, but once in a while, for whatever reason, I see one that is reversed. An inexpensive ($5) basic multi-meter with DC volt setting is all you need to check the polarity of the wires.

[G G]

gotcha Adam.

[G G]

Also was searching on Bing about this topic and came across an old thread where Shilala stated that there is a rubber grommet on the high right back of the unit and that is where he ran the power cable for the fans out of the back of the unit. I was thinking I would have to run in down to the drain hole before sealing it with electricians putty.

[G G]

The fans came in today, now just gotta wait for the other components to come in. They have red, black, and blue wires. I believe to wire them the red is hot, the black is ground, and the blue is tach. Only gonna wire red and black.

[G G]

Went by Lowe's and got the cable ties, cable tie mounts, and electrical connectors for the fan wires.

[G G]

Also was able to get a brother from my church that does woodworking to look at the four drawers from my vino and he says he can modify them to fit the frigidaire and build me one shelf from Luann for 35 bucks total. He has them now.

[shilala]

Originally Posted by T.G

**: Little known fact, electrical equipment doesn't actually run on electricity. It runs on a pre-installed charge of magic blue smoke. The electricity is necessary to create a field which keeps the blue smoke captive. If you let the blue smoke out, it won't run anymore.

Most people don't know this, that's why it's a little known fact.
Absolutely true.
On the great big powerlines they have blue AND red smoke, or so the legend goes. Nobody has ever owned up to letting that smoke out. I happen to know a guy that knows a guy, though.

[shilala]

Someone will eventually ask "do I need to plug the drain hole?"
To this, I always answer "go drill a half inch hole in your desktop and see how well it holds humidity."
I've always wondered why guys think it's okay to have a hole in a winador, but not in any other kind of humidor.
And yes, if you have your winador in a basement or ambient condition where the RH is a constant 65%, the winador will also stay at 65%. So some folks can leave their cigars on the kitchen counter and they'll be fine.
But that's a very, very small percentage.
And humidity control is not the only reason we put our cigars in a humidor and don't want a constant transfer of outside air.
Did that sound pissy?

[G G]

Okay, will post up pics tomorrow if I don't have a lot of 911 runs. I have it rigged with the fans and the DRAIN IS PLUGGED. LOL Had to use siliconized caulk since I didn't want to drive 40 miles for a pound of putty. I did text Scott and make sure I wasn't gonna destroy something by using it first though. And he is nice enough to actually answer me.

[G G]

Got the Fridge pretty much set up yesterday. Here are some pics. I used this to seal up the drain since I didn't have quick access to the putty Scott recommended:



I had to run the wire for the fans out the drain hole because mine doesn't have any other places to run it without drilling a hole somewhere up in the top so I ran it this way. The wires will be hidden by the drawers anyway:



Here are the fans installed and they work like a charm. I used three because Shilala said that even though he used two and it works fine if he ever builds out another one he would use three. I have learned over the years that if it's good enough for Scott then it's probably worth doing. The different color cable ties are because the nice black one's I bought were too big to fit through the mounts and I had these laying around:



I am now just giving it a couple days for the plugged drain to cure and also got a pound and a half of HCM beads from my vino. I have another pound on the way. As soon as all that comes together and I get my drawers back I will get it loaded up and see what happens.

[G G]

Alright, a little update:

I had my cigars in the freezer for the last three or four days. I have been working crazy hours lately and have been on shift for 48 hours at a time for the last week.

I had the fridge turned off to let the siliconized sealer set up for two days since I wasn't here. When I got home from work this morning I checked the seal and it's all good. I turned fridge on and then put the cigars back in it. They are in what I had them in the freezer in because I don't have my drawers back from my friend that's modifying them for me. Anyway I am having trouble getting the dial to keep the temp up where I want it. This fridge is supposed to have a range of like 40 degrees to 64 degrees. It does ice up on the evaporator everytime I turn it on though. Shilala says it's cool and I just have to keep finessing it til I get it right.

[afranco]

Looking good

[G G]

Thanks Alfredo.

Small problem: This fridge is supposed to have a temp range from 40 to 64 degrees. I can't get it to go more than around 45 so far. Messaged with Shilala about it and he says that it'll be easier to get it up when I get my drawers and everything back in it.

[shilala]

I've been talking to Greg about the temp control on these things.
There's a spring stop right after the highest setting, then you force past that spring to make the knob "boing" and shut off.
It takes some practice to get the fridge set, and then I just leave it alone. I always kept mine at 72*.

On the evaporator frosting...
The whole back of this thing is an evaporator. Right now because Greg has nothing (or next to nothing) in there, the thermal mass is not sufficient to keep the air warm enough for it to short-cycle like we want it to.
In short, we want the giant mass of cigars to warm the air as fast as the evaporator cools it.

The evaporator may frost later, anyways. Doesn't matter. It's perfectly fine.
Eventually the compressor will shut off, the frost will thaw, and the fans will dry the condensate, sending it back to the air and the beads. Then it'll repeat, the cycles being more and more even as time goes on.

Greg's situation that he's showing you right now is actually really cool.
Most guys do the same thing, and it's easy to understand why. They expect a system to work when only part of the parts are in place, but it doesn't. And it does weird things.
It's because there are a lot of invisible numbers and temperatures, and physical properties at play. Lots of parts in the machine, and they all need to be in place, then have time to coalesce and work in harmony.

Now, if the front window were missing, nobody would give a second thought as to why things weren't working. Most guys wouldn't even try to make it work without a window except maybe Gainey and Murphy and Jerebek, but they Polanders. You'll have that.
Greg can't get predictable results right now because we're still missing lots of parts.
I'm not making foolish of him at all, really. We did this thread so guys can understand, and he's the PERFECT guy to do it with.
He's been super easy to work with, and reacted to the build exactly the way most brothers do. That's allowing me to answer all the questions I forget.

So, once Greg gets all the parts and pieces in place (cigars, boxes, trays, beads), stops opening the door 100 times a day, and lets the winador stabilize, he'll find that it just plain works.
Like magic.
Hopefully he'll journal all those fun days while it's coming together.

The only other thing I can mention is that lots of times guys use a Johnson Temperature control. That's fine.
I suggest this model because I personally know it's not necessary. Guys can save 60 or 70 bucks, get it set, and it never, ever changes.
I also like for there to be no extra moving parts and to keep the retrofit very, very simple.
There are tons of these setups out there. Nobody has EVER had a problem one.
Gainey will probably fix that.

We do have the control option to fall back on, so it's out there.
We'll see what happens. I think Gary is just stubborn enough to get that temp set perfect.