Tips for a fertilizer/weed control as I seed this spring

[forgop]

I'm going to put down 100# of kentucky bluegrass in the near future and was looking for a good fertizlier/weed killer. I wasn't sure if a Scotts Liquid Turf Builder +2 would be a good application for it or not. I won't be putting down a crabgrass preventative as I know I won't get grass to grow with applying it.

I just bought this house last spring and it has its problems with the lack of a nice quality turf and just trying to keep seeding the hell out of it to fill in bare areas. I don't want to deal with muddy areas all summer any time we have much rain.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

[wayner123]

I would go with sod. I know it's not what you were looking to do, but it makes more sense.

[forgop]

Originally Posted by wayner123

I would go with sod. I know it's not what you were looking to do, but it makes more sense.

Only problem is I just don't want to shell out $3,500 for the sod alone-that's figuring I hoof the labor (which I don't have the time and back to do it) and do the tear out. It'd probably be a minimum of $5k to have someone do it.

Just gonna have to aerate the hell out of it, seed, and fertilize.

[Silound]

Personally, I wouldn't use a weed'n'feed at all. Almost all of them target a specific type of weed but don't do much to stop anything else.

I would start with a base coating of RoundUp twice a week for two weeks, and till the land to a depth of three inches in between weeks. One week after the last spraying, I would seed the ground and water it well. As soon as the grass starts to sprout, keep a close eye for weeds and unwanted clover and other things sprouting. After the grass has a good footing I would come back and spot spray it with Crossbow/2,4-D to eliminate any unwanted broad-leaf weeds growing. Fertilize as recommended by the seeding instructions after the spraying.

That's what I would do...a bit more expensive but cheaper than sod and helps prevent overgrowth of unwanted crap.

[forgop]

Originally Posted by Silound

Personally, I wouldn't use a weed'n'feed at all. Almost all of them target a specific type of weed but don't do much to stop anything else.

I would start with a base coating of RoundUp twice a week for two weeks, and till the land to a depth of three inches in between weeks. One week after the last spraying, I would seed the ground and water it well. As soon as the grass starts to sprout, keep a close eye for weeds and unwanted clover and other things sprouting. After the grass has a good footing I would come back and spot spray it with Crossbow/2,4-D to eliminate any unwanted broad-leaf weeds growing. Fertilize as recommended by the seeding instructions after the spraying.

That's what I would do...a bit more expensive but cheaper than sod and helps prevent overgrowth of unwanted crap.

Problem is that it's already an established lawn, although poorly IMO. There are a few different patches that just look completely out of place.

[neoflex]

Have you priced out sod or are you just guessing at the cost? When my wife and I bought our house 4 years ago it was new construction so the builders definition of a lawn was much different than ours. When we priced out our options, having top soil brought in and than seeding and all that goes along with growing a new lawn it was about the same cost as it was for us to just go the sod route. Granted I did the work myself but price wise they were almost equal for us. Either way I would have been doing the leg work myself. I rented a commercial machine to till what we already had which I would have done either way so that cost was moot and than had a turf company deliver 12 palates of sod which was nice as I had them drop the palates in different areas of the yard so I wouldn't have to hump sod from the street or driveway the whole time. The nice part was when I was done it was instant gratification where as with seed it takes weeks and your not always guaranteed successful results. After tilling up what we had it literally took us a day and a half to roll it all out. Many of our neighbors went the other route and to be honest I still think we have the best looking lawn in the neighborhood. For me to go with seed I would have had to lay at least 2inches of topsoil so it still would have been PITA. Depending on what you currently have I almost always recommend bringing in at least an inch of topsoil when starting a new lawn from seed. In my opinion it gives you better odds of the lawn coming in thick and healthy.

[forgop]

Originally Posted by neoflex

Have you priced out sod or are you just guessing at the cost? When my wife and I bought our house 4 years ago it was new construction so the builders definition of a lawn was much different than ours. When we priced out our options, having top soil brought in and than seeding and all that goes along with growing a new lawn it was about the same cost as it was for us to just go the sod route. Granted I did the work myself but price wise they were almost equal for us. Either way I would have been doing the leg work myself. I rented a commercial machine to till what we already had which I would have done either way so that cost was moot and than had a turf company deliver 12 palates of sod which was nice as I had them drop the palates in different areas of the yard so I wouldn't have to hump sod from the street or driveway the whole time. The nice part was when I was done it was instant gratification where as with seed it takes weeks and your not always guaranteed successful results. After tilling up what we had it literally took us a day and a half to roll it all out. Many of our neighbors went the other route and to be honest I still think we have the best looking lawn in the neighborhood. For me to go with seed I would have had to lay at least 2inches of topsoil so it still would have been PITA. Depending on what you currently have I almost always recommend bringing in at least an inch of topsoil when starting a new lawn from seed. In my opinion it gives you better odds of the lawn coming in thick and healthy.

If I were new construction, I would do sod for the reasons you stated. Problem is in getting approximately 1300 sq yards cut out, new topsoil put down, and then laying down 20 pallets worth. That doesn't even take into account there's now way to get the topsoil to my back yard without hoofing all of it.

This is a google maps pic...my house is at the top and neighbor's is below. Hard to really tell that much, but you can see quite a contrast in my back yard and my neighbor's yard. His entire back yard is already thick and dark green and I barely had enough to even cut yesterday.

[yakman]

I still use the beer can fertilizer it works great. It takes care of weeds and helps the grass grow fast. If you want it send me a message.