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Upper Lower LPK Buffer Buffer tube Buffer spring Butt stock Bolt carrier group Ejection port cover Charging handle Barrel Barrel nut Gas block Gas tube Muzzle brake Sights Various tools |
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What did an upper and a lower go for before this mess started? |
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Went to Cabelas Monday to see what they might have left. Plus just to kill the afternoon. Surprisingly they had the Tactical Solutions .22lr Glock conversion kit on hand and for my model. $380 though, ouch. So I bought this instead. Sig Mosquito in OD green. Also found ammo locally for it, so I've got my cheapo range plinking setup.
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It's an old read but this is where I got started: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_15/10...mm_AR_FAQ.html |
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My best advice is this. Buy a lower. That is the "gun" and the controlled piece. If they ban AR's that is the part that will be banned. Manufacturers will still make other parts. Building really isn't that hard. |
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I haven't installed the Core15 one yet, and I don't have enough experience to tell the quality just by looking. From reputation, they're decent quality. perfectly fine rifles, maybe a tad overpriced which lends folks to choose other more competitive offerings. But overall, GTG for the right price. Quality on them is fine. Apparently it's a bunch of ex-bushmaster guys running the show over there. Quote:
I've been trying to justify a Mosquito in Black for a while now, but I've got the Ruger Mark III, and I can't talk myself into both at the moment. |
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What are your guys thought on carry, concealed at a friends house? Wither they are pro guns, semi gun pro or anti guns?
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2) it'll give you a better knowledge of your AR and how to repair it without a gun smith. AR15 build guide: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_.html |
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Sometimes, you know the guy, you know his stance clear as day. If you know he carries in his house, odds are you can too. Unless you're an irresponsible ****, then he's not going to want you and a gun anywhere near his family :) If you know they're very anti-gun, odds are you need new friends, err, I mean, you should respect their rights in their own home and not carry. For the inbetween'ers... it's a judgement call. Some I would ask and respect their answer. For some, well, it's CONCEALED carry, and I carry mine DEEP, and I'm not there for drinking... so I won't ask. But if I think there's any chance they would be offended, I'll ask, or just leave it in the car. Sometimes, you see a very different dynamic in families. I've seen a number of pro-gun husbands and gun-neutral wives, where the wife accepts and TRUSTS her husband's use of a firearm, but would not be so likely to trust anyone else in her home with a gun, regardless of whether she knows you or not. And if she's got children running around, that sentiment only gets stronger. (My fiance is anti-gun, and this is most likely the stance she will take in our house as well - trusting ME with a gun is grudgingly accepted, and is a very different thing than trusting someone else with one.) |
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o07_s01_i00 |
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Midway has genuine Glock 17 mags in stock for $25 (NOT the korean ones)
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/538...-polymer-black |
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But I'd say, if you go somewhere that you know is going to be a pain in the ass to have it lodged somewhere uncomfortable (i.e. IWB during a Superbowl party) I'd say either leave it in your car, or ask if you can stash it somewhere. When I go to my friend Mel's house, I walk in, say hi, give her a hug, then pull out whichever piece I'm carrying, drop the mag, pop the chambered round, cycle the action, and stash the mag/piece/+1 round in the end table drawer all before going in and saying hello to her sister and their roomy. But they're from Texas where these things are normal...and because I knew they were pro-carry, I had a conversation with them about it. I also don't mind leaving it in the table drawer because they're each a decent shot and could handle whatever I bring over. |
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Figure the break down is
$500-600 for the upper alone $200ish for the DD rails $100 for the mag block and maybe about $100 for the rest of the stuff not a bad deal |
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That's what I thought. Is it missing anything other than mags?
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not sure but you may need a 9mm hammer. What pattern mag is the spikes? does it come with buffer spring?
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I believe it uses Uzi mags. For the buffer spring, I thought the normal AR .223 spring will work with the kits as long as you're using a 9mm buffer
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yup standard buffer spring should be ok. I use the wolff XP power in mines because I load my stuff hot.
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Ok Firearm guys...
I want my very own AR-15... but I am a broke a$$ with very little money... with the proposed ban, I don't have much time, I read yesterday that if this ban passes the only thing it will affect is the ability to purchase lowers... is this true? meaning I need to go buy one ASAP? What is the cheapest possible path from nothing to a completed left handed AR-15? |
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fyi guys - midwestpx has the NFA polymer stripped lowers in stock
http://midwestpx.com/index.php?cPath=92&sort=3a&page=2 |
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How much you're willing to pay for that lower, and how likely you think it is that a ban will actually pass, is something YOU have to determine. I would advice caution from buying into the fear mongering... and I would also advice equal caution from becoming complacent and thinking it can't happen. both extremes will not lend to healthy decisions. So, advising on the assumption a ban will pass (because if one doesn't pass, you don't really have any questions that need answer): You need a stripped lower. You can get one on Gunbroker right now for $350-$400. Retail is $90-$150. You're paying that surcharge for peace of mind, and the ability to have it in your hand NOW. Your other option for NOW would be to try going to a gun show this weekend, you'll probably find one on sale for $300-$350 (go early). A bird in the hand, two in the bush, and all that jazz. If you think a ban will pass, but not for another 3-4 months, then you have other options. You can watch SlickGuns like a hawk and, waiting to pounce on a batch of lowers put up for sale or preorder. "in stock" generally doesn't ship for another 2-4 weeks. Pre-orders typically ship in 3-8 weeks. Make sure you find out before you buy. BOTH of these pages will have listings for lowers on them: http://www.slickguns.com/category/accessories http://www.slickguns.com/category/rifles POLYMER lowers: Lots of guys will thumb their noses at a polymer lower. I kinda am that way, but mostly because it doesn't fit MY needs. BUT a polymer lower does have it's place in the world, and they can be pretty danged durable (and because it flexes more, it can actually be more durable in some cases where metal would be irrecoverably bent). A bigger disadvantage to them I think than a perceived lack of durability, is a lack of customize-ability. Many times the Stock is fixed, etc. (that's actually a good thing - more mass, fewer small parts and joints to break). Either way, if you're flat broke, you want a plinker AR to have, hold and enjoy at the range or take hunting, A quality polymer lower is an option. And it's typically running only around $170 these days. You won't have much flexibility, but it will do the job. I think that sums up what I know at the moment. It should go without saying that you'll need to pick up a few magazines as well. A magazine capacity ban, in fact, has a much higher chance of passing than anything else. |
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Had two in my cart but decided to skip it since the two local FFLs charge $100+tax for transfers. I can get a private party metal one for a little more
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Is that "normal" for cali? My local ones charge $25 |
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Thanks Justin.... So which parts will be different for me in a left-handed build? would I need to find a specific type of lower?
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continuing the polymer receiver primer:
There's two basic kinds. There's the newer gen New Frontier (NF) model, which is just the receiver, and there's the old gen been around a while Calvary Arms (CA) model, which is the receiver, buttstock, and pistol grip all in one. Calvary Arms: http://www.slickguns.com/sites/defau...s/61043819.jpg New Frontier: http://www.slickguns.com/sites/defau...STRIPPED-2.jpg Now the reality is, most parts of the lower receiver DON'T need to be very strong. The lower doesn't see a lot of high stress. The CA receiver has been torture tested, and held up to a lot of abuse. It's also non-customizable, and ugly as hell. On the NF lower, my only point of concern is the stock joint, where you screw the stock in. That is also the point where recoil spring and buffer goes into the stock, and it does take a bit of abuse. I would hope that would not be liable to cracking way down the road. Please understand, I'm not well educated on the subject, I have NOT done my research, I am not a gunsmith, plastics expert, or machinist. All I'm saying is, you might want to read up on it first, that MIGHT be a point of concern. |
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I will definitely take that into consideration... Thanks... :tu
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For the upper, you have some options. sometimes it's just a simple matter of making sure there is something to deflect brass away from your face. But there is still some gas that comes out of the bolt area, and some folks have more trouble than others with getting a face full of unpleasant gas leftovers, depending on how you hold the rifle. Some people buy lefty specific upper receivers and bolt groups which flip everything around, spit the shells out the other side, etc. Costs more that way. All depends on the scratch you have available at the time. |
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well... I have very little scratch... but I really want a AR that doesn't eject hot brass into my face and/or body... can you ballpark what a lefty upper runs? say average, middle of the line...?
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When you are ready to build your upper, ar15.com is the place you need to ask that question, and they will give you answers that you would otherwise never have known even existed. |
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The brass is easily solved. Even some of the gas can be directed away if it's minor. The major consideration is how YOU hold the rifle and sight with it. That will best be answered by you shooting someone else's AR first, before you try to choose which specialty parts are or are not needed to fix the problem you might, or might not have.
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Thanks.... :tu
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Keep in mind, I know what I know from reading. I'm the guy that has spent way too much time reading way too many things. And I usually remember them. I'm an internet jockey who wants to get into 3gun (but has never shot a match yet). Out in the field, I'm not the guy you would be asking for anything from, I'm not all that experienced. So take my opinion as what it is, the "summation and distillation of what I have observed and read", not the dispensing of any great first-hand experience on my part.
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Well Francis, it is still appreciated...
I think I am going to save some pay and grab a lower with my next check if I can... :tu Thanks for lending me your knowledge... |
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Of all the polymer lowers, the CA lower is by far mostly known as the most superior polymer lower. Down side is the stock is fixed to the lower. |
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I want to take a while... buy a part here... a part there... I thought they were cheaper if you assembled them yourself...?
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You have chosen the absolute worst time to start this process due to the panic buying going on a record pace. |
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Rob, if your willing to pay full blown fear pricing, there was someone on this site planning on selling there extra lowers for a mint if you will pay it, who knows maybe there's a trade offset you could manage. I think it was Duane (forgop)sp?.
I do know of people recently getting lowers for around 200, I will look into it. |
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FFL to FFL are $60-100. Private party transfers are around $35 |
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That's bullshit bro. My FFL charges $20 for any transfer
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In South Florida, I use to pay $35 but found a new one that charges me $25.
That is best I can do. |
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Finally got shipping notice on my E-Landers.
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Picked up my PTR-91 today. :noon
pictures to follow later. Still haven't found ammo for it. Damn you sportsman's guide for screwing up 4 separate back-orders on .308 ammo. Won't make that mistake again! |
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