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Re: Shilala Beads
I think i'm gonna give em a try.
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I think i will give the beads a try at some point, but anything that creates such a violent reaction when in direct contact with water is a bit scary to me.
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There shouldn't be any liquid water in your humidor so you'll be safe ;)
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Press down with the iron and hold it until you know the bag has come to temperature. Pressing is important. It pushes the blue around and makes it stick good. The other option is to just sew the edges. The fabric is tricky to seal. I can tell if it's right by squeezing the bags after I make them. At a time, I had a crappy iron and had a lot of fail that I didn't catch. I got a new super fancy iron and it alleviated the fail. :tu I have a couple two ounce sticks in my travel humi that I made a long time ago, the ends are splitting on me. I need to fix them. They're one of the million things I have to fix around here. :) |
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I was thinking that, too. I had a bag split on me the other day, and I just took
some packing tape and sealed the edge that way. I lose about 8 percent of my air exchange area, but now I have a handle to grab. The beads will not all go through the nylons, but enough will that you will be sorry you did that. |
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If you stretch the nylons taught, it's kinda like they aren't there. More like a sieve than a bag. When I was finding a fabric to use, I tried almost everything. I can't remember how I came across the fusible knit. I think I was looking for something else in the fabric store and was gonna use fabric glue or this iron-on glue strip they have. When I saw that stuff, I was all like "Dood. Nice." It wouldn't come apart when I got it ironed right, although it is delicate. The delicate is a tradeoff because it's so sheer, doesn't stretch, and it allows a perfect transfer of water to air. |
Re: Shilala Beads
I am a little confused on how to recharge the beads. Usually I would put them in a bag with a small dish of warm water and let the beads slowly recharge. Reading the site it says that is exactly how you should raise the PH of the beads. I have noticed that my humidor now stays around 68.
How do you charge them without raising the RH? |
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The only time you should have to add moisture is if: a) you have a bad seal/leaky humidor, b) you open the humidor ALOT and leave it open for long periods of time. If your RH does drop, and stay, at a lower level than you want you just need to put the beads in a sealed container with a water soaked sponge for a few hours to increase their water saturation. When you put the beads back into the humidor your RH will raise as the beads shed moisture in reseeking equilibrium.
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If you put them in a sealed container with a water soaked spong you will raise the PH. Still the question remains.... |
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Your mileage may vary, but you are constantly and frequently having to add moisture you either live in a desert or have a leaky humidor :2 |
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The beads work via equilibrium, as mentioned. They hold a vast amount of water as opposed to conventional beads. By way of a sh!t ton of mathematical and physical properties, they need to be "recharged" very seldom, even in a "traditionally mildly leaky humidor" situation. To give you an idea, you can open a winador around 800 times before the beads will move one point in RH. Granted, that statement is assuming the room is within 20 points of the beads. As in the beads are at 65% and the room is between 45% and 85%. There are a zillion variables to do that equation, and the final number relies on the very ends of the equation. In normal instances, you can open and close your humi forever without the beads changing, because the winter is drier and the summer is wetter, and the beads simply recondition upwards and downwards across the time period. A humi has to really have an exceptionally bad seal to affect the beads negatively. So bad that it doesn't fall into the "traditional breathing category" whatsoever. It has to fall into the "it's more a shoebox than a humidor" category. I'm not doing the math for someone who lives in the rainforest or in the desert. :) Hope this helps!!! :tu |
Re: Shilala Beads
On the ammonia/PH thing...
To recharge, you use water vapor. That way there is no chance of soiling the surface of the beads. You use distilled water. The beads trap ammonia via their structure and covalency. The beads are full of tunnels. Those tunnels are small enough to hold out free hydrocarbns, yet large enough to let in ammonia molecules. Once ammonia is drawn in (and I say "drawn in" because it is via the electrical charge of the beads) it is bound inside the beads. There is so much ammonia capturing potential in a volume of beads per volume of humidor space that they can never become saturated with ammonia in a humidor, no matter how many wet cigars you put in there. It's another huge mathematical equation that bears that out. The never is because there's roughly 3,000 years of potential in a volume of beads per volume of humidor space, based on a constant flow of ammonia from cigars for that entire period. So I suppose never is a bit agressive. Cool thing is that if you do live for 3000 years, all you have to do is steam clean the beads, all the ammonia will be released, and your beads are brand new and ready for another 3000 years. |
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Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and I certainly do not want or need an argument, but Scott Shilala is a stand up guy. When I was trying to figure out what to put in the vino for humidification I called him on the phone and he talked to me for an hour explaining how they worked and why they were better than anything else that is available. So even if Scott has an "interest" in the beads I will still buy them.:) |
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Your PH was a typo, you meant RH. You don't need to "recharge" them at all if they don't need to be. You determine whether or not they need recharged (it's "reconditioned", actually) by reading your hygrometer. They don't need to be reconditioned just for the sake of reconditioning, as in "do it once a month". Most guys never have to do anything to them. Some guys, once or twice a year. Some more often depending on their humis. When someone has to recondition frequently, there's only one reason why that would happens. It's because humidity is escaping or entering the humidor. That means it leaks too much. Then you just gotta seal it up a bit, beit with silicone or a rubber seal or whatever. Did I get your question and answer it that time? If not, help me understand and I'll do what I can. :tu |
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Caring instructions are on the "about" portion of the site and there is a link at the bottom on how to use your beads.
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Yes, I did mean RH not PH. We are not talking fishtanks here.
Now I understand. They only need to be 'recharged' if they fall below the desired RH level. Took me a minute but I get it now. |
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So I have a question, which I thought about when I saw the comment to only use distilled water to recharge. Note, I use the HCM beads and am thrilled with them, and I have not had to recharge them after months of use in Colorado.
On to the question, what difference would it make if distilled water (vs. tap) was used to recharge them if the water was being applied as a vapor (as in, evap'd from a sponge or water, etc). By definition, isn't turning the water into vapor going to be creating 'distilled' water in the process? I'm a biology guy, not a chemistry guy, so maybe I'm missing something critical. I've always used distilled (back when I used traditional humidifiers, anyway) but got to thinking about what the difference would be in this application. |
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That isn't the biggie, though. If you use tap water, you take tons of spores, dirt, mold food, and crap to your humidor. Plus if you are using a sponge, it'll mold in a very short time. By using distilled water, you keep a much more sanitary condition for a longer period of time. There are mold spores everywhere, so in time, a distilled water soaked sponge will eventually mold, but it'll mold umpteen times faster with tap water. Both because there's more spores present and because tap water provides them food. |
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Well, that makes sense. But if we're putting the sponge and beads in a ziplock bag (not the humidor) to recharge it, would it still matter? Is this a question of contaminants making it onto the bead bag?
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It might not matter as much if you are recharging in a ziplock baggie, but distilled water is so cheap and easy to come by, why risk it?
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I think it is scientifically impossible to 'carry things with it' as water evaporates out of
the sponge and is taken up by beads. But I am no scientist. But I DO make fun of them. :D |
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I had planned on writing "tap water" in the instructions to make things easier on people. Then I found that tons of mold spores are present in tap water. Plus vapor from tap water is more likely to carry crap. So right back to distilled water we went. I always used distilled water cause the old guys here said to use it. It was nice to find out why. :) |
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Huh. That's interesting to know, thanks for sharing that knowledge, Shilala!
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Love learning about this stuff.
Thanks for sharing Shilala! |
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Shilala does know his stuff!
I had the pleasure of speaking to him on the phone yesterday and he had some solutions for my win-o-dor humidty issues i was having. I took his advice and so far everything looks 10 times better than before. Great guy :tu |
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I went to go check out a humidor today that i found on CL and bought it. The dimensions are; L- 24"xW-24"xH-30". After doing the calculations for Shilala beads it says I need; 17280 cu.in. or 2 lb. The humidor is supposed to hold 2000 sticks but I'll only have about 200 loose and 4-5 boxes in there for now. Do i need to actually purchase 2 lb or can I do with less for now?
The current owner uses the old green foam, and it holds temp and rh at 70/67%. I checked his hygrometer and the min/max in memory was 63/72. Any help would be great, I've never had to deal with a humi this big but he made me an offer I just couldn't turn down. **If this is the wrong place to post this apologies |
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Well, unless I'm incorrect in understanding how that type of humidification works, it doesn't matter how many sticks you have in the humidor...just how much room the beads have to humidify. So yeah, if that's how much the website says you need I would stick with 2lbs.
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thanks
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Ok I'm just about to put in my order for 2LB of HCM beads and I was just wondering about something. I noticed on the heartfelt site that you can purchase the beads without containers, just on their own. I can't seem to find that on the shilala beads site. I know I can just cut them out of the bag if i wanted to or are they designed a certain way to work better in those bags?
One last thing the site recommends doubling the weight it recommends is there really a need? Thanks again in advance. |
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cool, thanks
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How much would I need for a cabinet the size of an Aristocrat?
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the easiest way to figure it out is to get the dimensions of your humidor, go to http://hcmbeads.com/products.asp , enter your dimensions and it'll spit out exactly what you need.
I just did this yesterday and my humi is 24x24x30 and it came out to 17280 cu.in. = 2LB its literally play |
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The fabric is very sheer and durable for the best possible air transfer. The bags are just the right size to take full advantage of the bead's properties, and allow maximum exposure per volume of beads. Another infoid is that the beads are tiny. Take them out of the bags and they will be all over your world. Most everyone always uses two times the amount of beads necessary. I use three or four times what's necessary cause I'm mental. It's kinda like how we buy way more cigars than we'll ever smoke. :) In the case of any beads, more can't hurt, and the more you have the quicker the recovery time will be in your humi. If you use the same surface area amount of Michael's beads as opposed to any other media, they will bring a humi back to the desired RH over 800% faster than any otherstuff. If you take them out of the bags and put them in bowls and things like that, you're just screwing yourself over. Unless you dump them on cookie sheets in your humidor. That'd be better. :D It's another math-laden thing as to how beads work, but that's the short of it. "Don't take them out of the bags" is a really good suggestion. :tu |
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Shame you guys don't offer replacment bags for these beads when they split. Maybe have a version sealed with velcro for those who need to repair the original broken bags. I've inquired more than once but have never been offered a solution. Might consider this an opportunity to grow the customer service side of the business.
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It's super easy. Use an old tshirt under the bags, NOT a towel. Press and hold for a few seconds in each area. You can always hand-sew the bags, too. It wouldn't be too awful tough. :tu |
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Just ordered some beads. I have HF beads in my humi's now so I will do a comparison for anyone who is interested.
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I will be ordering some as well. This thread has sold me. Also I am having with the heartfelt beads. If I have the vino upstairs they can't get the humidity high enough and if I put it in the basement where it's more humid it can't get it down low enough and I'm tired of screwing with them.
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^ Me too this has been a very informative thread, so I had to get in on the Bead action.
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Because this happens to me.... _____they can't get the humidity high enough (in the winter for me)and if I put it in the basement where it's more humid it can't get it down low enough(in the summer)______ For me though if I put my coolerdors in "body bag" type garbage bags that does solve it. Of course I'd rather not deal with it. I will also say that the HF beads when I bought them were the best thing available. I have not tried Shilala's beads so I can't comment on them. |
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