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I tend to approach the humidors with lots of front drawers like that with caution as a lot of them leak like sieves.

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interesting, so I should just go with my original tuscany top opener? Holds 100-120, even if that's 75-100 ...still should be enough to start. then I could "upgrade". How are the ones with glass tops, or glass period, I figure IMO I would imagine they let in light NEGATIVE and they can break...NEGATIVE.

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Glass is one of those things that depends on where you are going to use it.

Direct sunlight hitting the glass of a humidor isn't really a good thing, but glass in a typical artificially lit room isn't any big deal.

Sometimes the seals around glass top humidors leak and they require some work to get them to seal, but I've never heard of one breaking.

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Actually that humidor does not have drawers, they are only decoration if you check the description. If you like the looks then it should be fine. Has a tray for singles and a good amount of storage below. I agree with Adam, stay away from glass tops they are nice looking but require more maintenance.

HeartfeltIndustries has a nice adjustable hygrometer for $22, and you can get a Boveda kit tossed in for $3. One Extra large tube of beads should be more than enough for that sized humidor. http://www.heartfeltindustries.com/p...Humidity+Beads
Most here prefer 65% beads to 70% as most cigars seem to smoke better at the lower Rh. :2

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Ok explain the beads thing, sorry for all the questions just trying to hopefully get this right on the first try. Is the Hygrometer upgrade for $20 on cheap humidors good or no?

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Thanks Bob, you're right, I didn't really read the description, I just glanced at it and thought it was a multi-drawer humidor.


;s

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Most cigars should be kept humidified to keep them from possibly losing flavor.

There are many different ways to humidify cigars. The beads are one of these ways.

For smaller humidors, beads work quite well. They don't take up much space and they have a unique advantage over most other forums of humidification: they can both release moisture and absorb it. Few other humidification systems can lower the humidity in a humidor when it gets over the set point. Beads are also very simple. Simply buy them, put them in the humidor and water them if necessary.

There are a lot of published pages, mostly by e-tailers, touting 70%RH. While this isn't "bad", as you hang around and have more interaction with other BOTLs here (and most any forum for that matter) you will find that a large number will advocate humidity in the 60% to 65% RH range, because, as a slightly drier smoke, the cigars will burn better, more evenly, have a lesser chance of being plugged and usually have more pronounced flavors.

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Looks like a good hygrometer. The advantage of one that is adjustable is that you can set it to the right Rh. All hygrometers must be calibrated, the Boveda kit is set at a specific humidity(I think 74%) when you put your hygrometer in the kit if it reads 72% an adjustable hygrometer can be re-adjusted to 74%. With a non adjustable you will have to remember that your hygrometer is reading 2% low.

Beads are similar to the silica gel you may use in your gun cabinet to remove moisture. But as Adam said they are set to a specific humidity and will add or absorb moisture as necessary.

I see that you missed posting an introduction. Please stop here http://www.cigarasylum.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=7 and tell us a little about yourself.

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Ah there's the introduction forum. Posted. So it seems my start up rig isn't a bad choice and I may as well go with it. So I hear it usually takes 7 days for the humidor to get to the right humidity, whats the shelf life on cigars? Say I ordered a humidor with 30 cigars, would I be fine waiting the 7 days to put them in there without.....them going....bad?

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7 days is totally dependant on the climate and humidity where you live and the the humidor. It could take more, but it will most likely take less.

You can just open the lid, add cigars, add humidifier(s), close the lid and forget about it. That's all I've ever done. I've never "seasoned" a humidor, it'll get there on it's own just fine.

If you want to, no problem. Just put your cigars into a tupperware container that seals well or into a ziplock bag (and that into another ziplock bag if you wish) and that will be fine for a week or more. If the seal is good on the tupperware/ziplock (hence the bag in a bag) then, your cigars will keep quite a long time in these storage containers without an external humidity source since the plastic doesn't breathe, and therefore, lose humidity/moisture.

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Here is the link to the humidor seasoning thread. Check the stickies at the top of each forum for a ton of helpful information. http://www.cigarasylum.com/vb/showth...ight=seasoning

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Well I think that's more than enough information, thanks guys. I'll look into ordering this setup as soon as I get paid.

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hey, how about the Treasure Dome..Got mine on cbid cheap

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Most reviews/sentiment that I've heard have been positive.

I do seem to recall some scattered reports of the hinges tearing out of the lid, most likely due to the weight and locations of the center of mass being way behind the hinges.

Other than that, I don't really recall any oft repeated complaint. Of course there is the occasional one that doesn't seal well, but such is bound to happen with any of the inexpensive mass produced humidors.

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Do you lay those tubes in with your cigars like it's another cigar or do you put it off to the side?

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I put my tube across the top of shorter sticks like robustos.

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Yeah there are those imperfect ones on ch for pretty good deals

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Why do the cigar manufacturers make house brands for famous and CI? And what are those cigars? I like all the Toranos I've tried and I just read that they also make the 5 vegas "A" cigars. And looking at famous I see torano has made a cigar they put their label on too. So I was checking out these torano house brands and they cost roughly the same as some of the Torano branded cigars and I have no idea what to think. Are there any general rules for knowing which of these might be worth a try? Or is it always on a case by case basis?

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Cigar manufacturers make cigars. It's what they do. CI/Famous comes to one of them and says "Hey, we want a new cigar with our name on it. We need x-many hundred thousand cigars, y-number vitolas, at the following price point. Has to be light/medium/full bodied and have a whatever wrapper. Can you do it? How much will it cost us?"

What are they supposed to tell CI/Famous? "No, we're going into the rubber duckie manufacturing business instead, piss off."? ;)


100% tobacco, I would hope.

But if you're buying house brands from Thompson's, they might or might not even be that much.

It's a blender and manufacturer that you know you like. The price isn't so low that one might be worried if they are filled with sawdust and floor sweepings, nor is it so high that one might automatically dismiss it as overpriced.

If you like the blender and manufacturers other work, and if the description sounds interesting or along the lines of what you like, then yeah, it's probably worth a shot. (see below for second half of answer)

Yeah, that's the other thing. Just because you like a lot of stuff from one manufacturer, doesn't mean you'll like these house brands, or the other way around.

If the description intriques you, I would say pick up a 5 pack or a mixed size sampler and give it a try. If you hate them, you can always trade them or send them to the troops.

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I thought at first that if I just learned a few technical terms and rules of thumb and identified a few smokes I like I could just order boxes of those and I'd be all set. Now I'm starting to get the idea that it will take me years to hunt down and sample all the cigars that seem intriguing. What a shame :)

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It's no shame. It's an adventure.

Remember, it's about the journey. Not the destination.

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Izz true! Izz true!!! :tu

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Yep. :tu

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Peter is wise. :banger

It is not advisable to buy boxes when you are starting out on this trek. What you like today you may find does not appeal to you in a few months. Some find it useful to keep a journal of the cigars they have tried. Then sample others of the same brand to see if it is a brand that appeals to you across the board. But also take note of the wrapper type and the country of origin of the tobacco.
For instance if you find an Oliva you like, try other Oliva's in different wrappers or blends. And take note that Oliva is made from Nicaraguan tobacco and try others using the same tobacco, they wont all taste the same.
Check out the Newbie Sampler Trade as a good way to taste what others are smoking. Sample as many different cigars as you can until you start narrowing down your tastes and developing your palate. Read reviews of the cigars you smoke to see if you taste similar things. Have fun and enjoy the ride. :2

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Great Advice, Peter, Tom, & bobarian!:tu I Only Buy Boxes When I'm sure I Love the stick after at least 5 smokes of that particular gar!:tu

Just my imagination?
 

I haven't been keeping cigars at home for very long so I thought I would run this by all of you.
I've got a tupperdor and I've had maybe 20 different kinds of cigar in it for anywhere from a couple days to a couple months. It seems to me that some of my cigars have burn problems if stored for more than a few days unless I take them out of the humi a day or two ahead of time. Others work great right from the humi. The problem seems to be most obvious so far with my partagas spanish rosados. Even if I don't have burn problems it seems like the head gets moist as I smoke it sometimes.
I'm getting ready to buy some two way beads and a digital hygrometer and I'm wondering if I should get some 60% beads as well as 70% and keep two humidors? One for storage and one for "ready to smoke" cigars? Or maybe even get a box with no humidification at all? Is this all in my head or do some cigars hold more moisture than others?

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I would just keep everything at the same humidity (60%-65%), much simpler that way.

Some cigars do take longer to shed/gain excess moisture due to how they are rolled and what type or thickness of tobacco leaf is used in their construction as not all leaves shed/gain moisture at the same rate, nor will they all hold the same amount of water.

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It's good to know there are variations in the cigars and it's not just me.
So I won't need any 70% at all? I like that. The gel humidification I'm using now is 70 and that seems like the default when looking at the products online. Is the choice of 60 or 65 strictly personal or are there reasons to go with one or the other?

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What I've read is that the draw is easier, you get a better burn, and the flavors are more pronounced when smoking a cigar from a 60-65%rh humi.

I am a total NOOB myself though. Just going by what I'm reading.

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60% or 65% seems to be more about personal preference than anything else.

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Compared to 70%, yeah, pretty much. Plus, at 70% you are very close to the humidity levels necessary to cultivate mold, a little innacuracy on the reading and after a few days to a few weeks like that, and you could have mold forming on your cigars.

Difference between 60% and 65% is more about personal preferences though, and some people prefer their cigars even drier than that.

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Mine sits at 67% and I haven't tried anything lower than that, but I haven't had near as many burn issues at 67 as I did at 70

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I've had 24 Oz of 65% HCM Beads in my Edgestar 28 humi for about 3 weeks now. I've calibrated my hydro. The thing _still_ reads 69%. How long does it take for most people to see it come down to 65%? Does this mean I somehow have a leak? My drain plug is plugged quite well at this point....

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A leak would more likely cause your humidity to be lower, Bryan, so I am thinking it's something else. Were your cigars overhumidified prior to having the beads? What company are the HCM beads made by, I am not sure if I am familiar with them. And what method did you use to calibrate your hygrometer?

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Thanks for the reply Tom. Got the beads through this site: http://hcmcigarbeads.com/... Michael (CigarNut). The reason I say a leak is cuz the RH in my basement where my cigars are is actually higher. I don't see how a leak is possible though. That was part of the reason I went with a fridgador... figured that was a 'sealed' as you could get. I calibrated with a 75.5% Boveda kit. My cigars were overhumified prior... that's part of the reason I got these beads... had different ones before that didn't seem to be cutting it. Maybe it's just not enough time?

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I hear that. The dehumidifier in my basement runs 24/7 all spring and summer. We've had rain every day for a couple weeks now and that surely doesn't help. I've moved my cigars to the bedroom to enjoy the A/C.

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Well first every time you open it in a higher humidity environment you are allowing humidity into the cooler. Second edgestars etc are not air tight. The cooling system has an intake and exhaust. If you are not running it in the basement because it is cool enough down there I would plug it in and run the unit. The reason is through the cooling unit being on it will dehumidify the incoming air.

My unit runs 24/7 in an environment with higher ambient humidity. It took several months of operation for all of the cigars and drawers to reach equilibrium. But I have been rocking 65% humidity for over a year and haven't added any water to the beads in that whole time.

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Wow. I'm a moron. I really thought these things were air tight. Jeeze. So... then I have a serious concern about running the fridge... What about condensation!?!? I've seen post about this...

Do you have condensation problems in your fridgador?

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Looks like Jason has a lot more experience with your set-up than I do, Bryan...hope his post helps.

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Check them by themselves and see if theyre running high, michael sent directions on how to lower them if theyre too high.

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Do I? Hell yes. I even have my own thread on it in the accessories section.

But I have condensation problems because the temperature goes up and down in the house all day and is usually higher than 80.

From what sounds like for you you shouldn't have that large of a problem since the temperature shouldn't be varying that much. You will have a little condensation from the cooler removing the ambient air water after opening. Now of course by turning on the cooler you have to take into account your 1.5lbs of beads may not be enough. I run 2lbs and an extra fan, but again I have more extreme climate to yours.


Now if you go this route, not really necessary since 69% is a fine humidity you can go with the following:






The nice thing about an Edgestar is the drain design. Once plugged it will back up and overflow down the back wall to the bottom. Now provided you don't keep anything on the bottom that isn't a real problem. The bottom ridges in the unit are sloped towards the door. I put a half full bag of beads in the channel righ near the door to soak up the extra water. Once or twice a week I swap that with another bag. Since it is in equilibrium now that is all I have to do for maintenance.

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Thanks Jason! Funny, cuz I just found your thread you mentioned... that's actually the same thread I had in mind when I said I stuff about condensation before! ;) Didn't realize it was you.

This kinda sucks. I really don't want to have to worry about condensation. If I had known this I very well may have passed on the fridgador idea... :(

Maybe I just let it be as-is for a while and see how things go.... I'm really not sure what to do now. I hate the idea of condensation / water on the floor of the humi!!!

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Well keep in mind my environment is at the extreme range. The humidity can vary from 100% in the morning to 40% 12 hours later. In that same time frame the temperature can go from 75 to 110. This plays havoc on the stability of ANY humidor and I have had condensation in cooledors as a result.

Those changes are more responsible for my condensation issues and are atypical of what condensation if any you see in your unit.



If I was in your place this is what I would do:


1) Run as is for another 3 weeks and monitor humidity, moving the hygrometer to different positions within the unit every day. Opening the unit no more than once a day for a very short period.

2) If after those three weeks I had a recorded variance in humidity within the unit, differences more than 2-3% I would look into getting some kind of fan solution for the unit. Using another 3 weeks see how the fan affects my humidity. Possibly adding another .5lb of beads also.

3) *Understanding your aversion to condensation, otherwise I would put this as number 2* Run the unit for 3 weeks and see where my humidity levels are and monitor the condesation closely, if any.

4) Be happy with whatever humidity I get after all that work and let the damn thing be. I think doing some work to get it right is okay but after a while you just have to sit back and let it be what it is otherwise you'll go nutty trying to have the perfect humidity and temperature 24/7.

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Jason you're the man! Thanks for the great advice and taking the time.

Tonight I looked closely at the sides and back of the unit and was reminded that there are vents all over that fridge! I took the time to tape up all these vents. I'm hoping this really helps the situation.

I will try this and give it some more time and see how things go....

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I dont know if sealing off the vents is a good idea. Vinotemps use a closed system and I believe that the Edgestar's are the same.(A call to the manufacturer could verify this). If you seal the vents there is no way for the Peltier units to cool themselves and I think this will lead to further problems and possibly premature failure of the unit. :2

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Agreed!

Bryan. I got two Vinos and live in Jersey too. I had a little condensation issues early but it's pretty stable now. I put a lb of beads in one of those sacks and put it on top of the drain plug. This soaks up whatever drips from the cooling unit. I wouldn't be tampering with the vents Brother. That just sounds bad.

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I should have been more clear... I sealed the vents AND kept the unit off. I'd rather be able to keep the unit off, and have a closed system. This way no worry about condensate... and no worries about the electric bill... ;)

I'm going to wait and see if I can get the humidity down to 65% - the RH for the beads. Probably give it about a month. If after that it still doesn't come down, then I will seriously consider plugging the fridge in....

Should have got a tower of power... too bad my wife wont let me.

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Beat me too it. Solid advice. :tu

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Tom, these are Shilala's beads -- he often referred to them as "HCM" beads, so I made that the company name when I acquired the business from Scott.

You do not want to do this with Shilala/HCM beads -- they should not come into direct contact with water.

There has been a lot of good advice here. One thing you can do is to verify the RH of the beads (as the RH may have risen if the RH inside the Edgestar has been high for a long period). Just put the beads in a ziplock with a (recently tested) hygrometer for a while and see what the RH is. Based on this you can determine if the beads need to be adjusted.

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Thanks Michael...I just figured you would call 'em "Nutty Beads" now. :)