Re: Photography Thread
 

I can understand this the wife would have my head if photo quality fell short when our first baby gets here in a couple of weeks

Re: Photography Thread
 

Just bought the 600 and it is amazing! The 800 can trigger other flashes remotely but so can your D90. I say go with the 600 and use the onboard flash on the D90 to trigger the 600 offcamera wirelessly.

Re: Photography Thread
 

The thing with the SB800 is not so much the remote trigger. I can live without that, specially since I own numerous GVI wireless remote slaves that I can use from my days in the business.
I recommend the SB800 purely for the additional power it provides. That power will not only come in handy when needing to throw more light forward but will also come in extremely handy for bounce lighting, which is 90% of the flash photography I do and would highly recommend all do.

Again, no doubt the SB600 is an awesome flash but I would call it a V6 on that Mustang when you can rev a V8. If budget is a concern, no doubt the SB600 is the better way to go and certainly is a very good flash.

Re: Photography Thread
 

Also, when exposing for dark items, your cameras meter will try to make the image more gray. For dark items, use exposure compensation down a little. For white subjects, the opposite applies. For example, for shooting in the snow, you really have to controll the exposure (overexpose) if you want the snow to be white and not 18% gray.

Does any of that make sense?

-Roland.

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The 800 does serve as a remote trigger but so does the onboard flash on the D90 so he can trigger either unit with just his camera. If you have the cash go bigger. I m with you Blue.

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does the new SB900 pack the same punch as the 800 or did Nikon dumb it down? Asking because Amazon lists the 900 as the 800s replacement :tu

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http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...g8810/izzy.jpg

Roar of a Lion

Re: Photography Thread
 

I haven't shopped in a while for them.
I could see a 900 now being out there as the replacement to the 800.
Seems when they came out with the D90, the D80 soon phased out.
Take a look at the rating on them for comparison.
If I have a chance, will dig it up and do a comparison.

Re: Photography Thread
 

Great shot.

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SB900 Guide number:
34/111.5 (ISO 100, m/ft), 48/157.5 (ISO 200, m/ft)

SB800 Guide number:
38/125 (at 35mm) to 56/184 (at 105mm) (ISO 100, m/ft.)

SB600 Guide number:
30/98 (ISO 100, m/ft), 42/138 (ISO 200, m/ft) (at 35mm zoom-head position, 20 C/68 F)

Based on this, the 900 is a bit weaker than the 800. Seems it falls right in between the 600 and 800.

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Well that's an odd naming choice, then. Figures Nikon would do something like that. ;) :p

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Now that the topic is back to flashes, I'll bump my previous questions... :D

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In the world of Canon (which is the only world I know) the answer is "no."

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Dan,
I am not familiar with these units but will tell you this about flashes and digital SLRs. While many aftermarket ones will work, I am old school and believe each brand/manufacturer makes the flashes specifically for their equipment. I learned this the hard way when I went from a Canon camera to Nikon. While my Canon flash, comparable to the SB800 worked with my Nikon camera, I noticed many occasions where the flash and the camera did not communicate properly.

To me, flash makes your picture more times than not. If you have money tied up on a good camera, good lenses and so on, why cut short in the area this many times will make your pictures great pictures.

I have often used many aftermarket brands for flashes but have always slaved them, meaning they were not the primary source of light. They were additional lighting. Don't skimp on the flash. Remember, the more power you have, the happier you will be. These two don't look like they have a very high output at all.

Re: Photography Thread
 

I would venture to think they have not eliminated the SB800 based on the 900 having a lower rating.
I did wonder the same though. Why not name the darn thing the SB700 if in between the 600 and 800? They just want to mess with us.

Re: Photography Thread
 

It depends on your camera and the particular release volltage of the flash.

For instance. The Canon G10 can handle a flash voltage around 7.5v and my SB-600 flash ahs a release voltage of 12v It will work but it can also fry your camera.

This article HERE. Will give you some great info.

HEREare lists of safe trigger voltages for your camera.

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Failed to mention that critical information.
Glad you said it.
Go OEM on flash and happy you shall live.:D

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:tu Im glad to whrow my :2 when ever I can. (needed or not) :r

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The photography thread has a lot of talking going on currently... and not a lot of photo posting.

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:r:r:r

Pot calling the kettle black?

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I posted 5 this morning. :D

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To support what I have said about a strong flash and bounce lighting, here is an example of a zoom mode (where normally you lose the background and darkens when using flash), where the background is well lit and the subject looks natural, without harsh flash light in his face and shadows all over.

This was done with the SB800, aimed straight up at a 14' ceiling and a Gary Fong Light Sphere (Cloud). Just a quick, random candid shot as he got his haircut.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0043-1.jpg

Re: Photography Thread
 

I post atleast one every day. Posting 30 pictures in one post (like someone here) put a restriction on pictures per post.

Instead of going out and taking a picture of everyhting in sight uncomposed I enjoy making my pictures (more or less) worth looking at. After all its a photography thread not necessarily a snapshot thread.

Re: Photography Thread
 

What is neat about it is that it has evolved to not only a photo thread but one that folks can learn from also, myself included. In spite of all my years as a professional, having put my medium format equipment away nearly 14 years ago, I too can learn today from the digital world.

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Lighting was what I prided myself in.
Here is an example of a photo many would have taken with a flash straight on.
That would have caused a dark background and harsh lighting on the subjects, making it look unnatural.
I always prided myself in attempting to illustrate on film, exactly what my eyes saw.
I took this photo on a slower shutter, using my SB800 in a straight up bounce mode, with the Gary Fong Sphere, toning the flash down considerably to allow a more natural light look. I just wanted the flash to fill in the eye sockets that would have been unavoidable from the church ceiling lights.
I feel I got exactly what I was seeing at the time.

Moral..................GET A STRONG FLASH!!!!!!

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0020-1.jpg

Re: Photography Thread
 

I wish I had the gift and ability to share personal shots of my own. I don't. However, I would like to contribute to this thread by sharing the work of my cousin in Seattle. He is an award winning photographer and I hope you all enjoy his domestic and international work. His name is Tom and here is the link to his website.
I know if you take the time to look at his work, you'll be amazed!

www.thomashurst.com

Enjoy!

Re: Photography Thread
 

This shot that was posted earlier on this thread is an example of extreme strength in flash photography.
I used a Lumedyne (which only those of you that are professionals will likely recognize) that was a 400 watt per second unit. As flashes go, let's just say I was carrying around the equivalent of at least 10 of the strongest you will find for average Joe's.
I bounced that power straight up, using a reflector to fill in eye sockets. What you get is a soft, detailed photo, illustrating all the fine details in her dress.
Straight on flash would have burned out the gown and the details would have been lost, not to mention, shadows all over the place would have also resulted.

Hopefully, via these past few posts, I have illustrated why I support a strong flash so, so much.
Of course, having beautiful subjects such as these ladies certainly inspires one.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/SCAN0012.jpg

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One last one.

Who says Pit Bulls are mean?
Layla lost this battle for the ball. Actually got a smack from him to go along with it after he pulled the ball out of her mouth. Poor dog. She is such a sport.

Here is another, just fumbling around candid as I followed my wild and crazy grandson. Again, bounce lighting with the Gary Fong light sphere. Again, just a simple concept of a good flash, bounced off ceilings, using a diffuser to spread soft light forward, hence no shadows and not harsh flash burns on subjects. Accomplishes my goal of capturing a photo that illustrates what the eye was seeing.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/DSC_0058.jpg

Re: Photography Thread
 

OK, maybe one more while I am on a roll.
Here is a candid taken with my camera, same set up of a bounced flash, this time in a catering hall, with the Gary Fong Sphere. Even this girl who knows little about photography took a great shot. Nice, open background. No darkness. No harsh light at the subjects.
Note my eyeglasses - doesn't even appear that have any on.

So, hopefully the message I instilled today is never fear your flash.
Buy a strong one.
Throw the light up in the air.
Use a diffuser to push some highlight forward.

Happy flash photography folks!

Three generations of "Blueface".

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/DSC_0299.jpg

Re: Photography Thread
 

I have talked about it so much, here is an online photo (not mine) that I found to illustrate what the Gary Fong Light Sphere looks like.
I often use the lid on it when in a low ceiling setting.
What is neat about it is it allows you to bounce regardless of whether in horizontal or vertical frame mode.
Best $49 you will spend.

Re: Photography Thread
 

nice tools... will get that next month...

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Here is a nightmare for the average guy.

Natural backlight, coupled with glass behind the subject.
Two things normally happen here.
Your camera reads the excessive light and compensates, hence your subject is dark.
Next, your flash glares like heck with the glass.

Again, bounce lighting with the diffuser.
I think Gary Fong should freaking start paying me to promote him.:r

Note what I love about this candid.
Look at his devilish look. Then look at his hair. I swear it wasn't planned that way.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/DSC_0127.jpg

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Thats a great picture!!

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Awesome Pic

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Had two of those in ye olde in house studio in my college photolab made some great black and white florals with them

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I take it this is the 4th generation of Blueface? He looks like a handful :D

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Yup.
That is my 2.5 yr old grandson Alejandro.
He is beyond a handful.
That picture suits him just as he is, a Devil, but the joy of my life.

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All your Gary Fong talk has got the sphere in the wishlist right next to the sb800

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I'm poor, I may get the 600...

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I swear you will not regret it.
I would recommend the Whale Tail if you can cough up a few more bucks and are really into photography. Much better lighting options with that one.

Go to his website and see the videos. That little contraption can actually come darn close to imitating the effects of multiple studio lighting of a 2:1 ratio. For years, I use to attach homemade contraptions to accomplish this effect but Gary had the idea to mass produce it. Bastage!!!

B&H also carries his stuff but you can also buy directly from his site.
Check out this video. Get the "cloudy" one as works best for home use. Use the clear if in an open "hall"/"church" type area.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wfshQuBLdw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6l1I7dHXBgY

Here is the Whale Tail
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...client=safari#

Link to his direct store:
http://store.garyfonginc.com/

Dang!
Just clicked onto his website and he now has the light sphere as a collapsable.
That is very neat as the only drawback to this unit is the size.
$59 bucks. Well worth it.
Check out the how to video on there.

Re: Photography Thread
 

It is an awesome flash Dan. Just less power but you can always compensate if need be with your f stop or shutter.
For indoor, home use, you will never, ever know the difference between the 600 and 800.

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I'm poor too don't get me wrong... 4 years ago this was almost a career move... so I'm a little addicted to it :D

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Ritz Carlton Sarasota Florida.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...itzCarlton.jpg

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Nice picture! :tu

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Here are a couple. All suggestions appreciated. Go easy on me.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1...lueandffox.jpg

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9976/shaving.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/2123/hdmp.jpg

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2910/spota.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7037/monte2f.jpg

I shot these with my d40 with SB600 and Tamron 24-70 f2.8 glass.

Re: Photography Thread
 

Everything looks pretty good Darrell.

Picture 1
Awesome picture. A little more DOF (depth of field) would make it even more awesome. a tripod and raising the f stop will accomplish this. The lighting is cool too.

Picture 2
Same DOF thing as picture one. I like the old school theme of this one.

Picture 3
Kinda depends on what you wanted us to focus on. I like to have more in focus than just one spot. On the other hand this photo has some AWESOME! boque. :tu

Picture 4
Raising the ISO will allow you to shoot with a faster shutter speed which will also get rid of the blur. If there was enough ambient lighting you could also open up the aperture at the loss of DOF. This picture would be ok to have the doggies face crisp then fade off down the body.

Picture 5
Same as 3

Keep them up. I love seeing pictures.

And one of my photos for the road. Another kitty cat surprisingly in focus and not blinking. WOOT!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/totfocus.jpg

Re: Photography Thread
 

Thanks Wolf.

I'm kind of dumb with my camera still.

How do I get more DOF? and turning up the F stop means a higher number or lower number?

and what does F stop really do?

Re: Photography Thread
 

The F# represents aperture. All lenses have a series of blades in them that open or close.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...8/_IGP4899.jpg

A low F stop (f/1.8) the blades are completely open allowing the most light to hit the sensor (or film) This creates a very shallow depth of field.

A higher F stop (f/36) the blades are almost all the way closed this allows little light to hit the sensor so longer shutter speeds are needed to get the right exposure.

With a high F stop the Depth of field will be much greater. For an all around decent Depth of field I shoot between F/8 and F/11.

Photographers such as Jerry Uelsmann and Ansel Adams would have such a high F stop that their exposures could take hours for one shot and everything would be in focus. But this also has to do with the ISO or speed of the film. But that's another topic.

Let me know if I'm making any sense. :banger

Re: Photography Thread
 

I agree with all of the above and would add that you should try to keep in mind the "rule of thirds" when composing your shots, I.E. subjects don't look as nice when they're dead center of a photo.

A random shot of mine just for fun. Rally Cross!
http://m-mason.smugmug.com/Machines/...1_9JtaP-XL.jpg

-Roland.

Re: Photography Thread
 

A shot of the DrMS's pre-func before we left for downtown last night (I was the designated driver):

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/...a67898b4_o.jpg

I'll get some of the people shots I took last night up once I have a chance to go through them just a little bit more....